Champagne Bereche et Fils is one of the most admired family grower-producers in the Montagne de Reims, established in 1847 and currently directed by brothers Raphael and Vincent Bereche. Le Cran is the estate's flagship single-vineyard cuvee, produced from two of the finest old-vine Premier Cru parcels in the family's home village of Ludes: Les Hautes Plantes (Chardonnay, planted 1969, west-facing) and Les Vignes Saint-Jean (Pinot Noir, planted 1973, east-facing). The parcels are among the highest-altitude sites in Ludes and their limestone-chalk subsoil delivers wines of exceptional mineral definition.

The 2016 Le Cran was blended at 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir, reflecting the vintage's performance at each parcel. It aged 84 months on the lees before disgorgement in July 2023 with a dosage of 3.65 grams per litre. The 2016 Champagne vintage was challenging and low-yielding, but Bereche's old vines on premier cru limestone sites produced wine of notable concentration and intensity. The lot designation L.16CR0723 identifies this specific disgorgement run, useful for cellaring records.

Bereche's approach -- blocking malolactic fermentation, ageing in oak barrels up to 600 litres and using indigenous yeasts throughout -- produces wines of unusual freshness and vertical precision that contrast with the mainstream Champagne house style. Le Cran is described by Raphael Bereche as 'the most smouldering, mineral and tightly wound' of the estate's single-vineyard wines, suited to a decade or more of cellaring. At this stage of development, the 2016 should be showing the exotic richness of the later-picked Chardonnay described in early reviews.

Cellar for a further three to five years. Best from 2028 to 2040. Pair with lobster, grilled turbot, aged comté or white truffle preparations. Serve at 10 degrees in a broad Champagne glass to allow full aromatic development.

Bright gold with a fine, persistent mousse. The nose is rich and complex: apricot, chamomile, spice, mint, dried pear and tangerine peel combine in a soaring, layered bouquet. The palate is full and concentrated with a saline mineral spine underpinning the exotic fruit character. Dense and tightly wound; the long finish vibrates with chalky mineral tension. A serious cellarpiece.