Henri Bonneau was the most singular figure in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, producing wines from a tiny 6.5-hectare domaine in a completely personal and unhurried style that resisted fashion, commercial pressure and the modernisation that has reshaped most of the appellation over the past three decades. Bonneau, who passed away in 2016, continued working until virtually the end of his life, and the vintages released posthumously by his family continue to appear at market after lengthy periods of ageing in foudres and old barrels, sometimes far exceeding the conventional release timelines of other Châteauneuf producers. The Cuvée Marie Beurrier is the domaine’s second wine after the legendary Réserve des Célestins, named after Bonneau’s aunt and produced from the domaine’s 90% Grenache blend with small contributions of Mourvèdre, Counoise and Vaccarèse. Vinous awarded the 2018 Marie Beurrier 93+ points, praising its “dazzling aromatic profile” of melted liquorice, pressed rose petal, cured meat and black cherry compote, noting its “full-bodied” character and “excellent drive through the mid-palate.”

The 2018 Châteauneuf-du-Pape vintage was exceptional: warm, dry and consistent throughout the growing season, it produced wines of remarkable concentration, aromatic intensity and natural balance from the appellation’s gès (rounded galets) and clay-limestone soils. For Henri Bonneau’s old-vine Grenache, harvested traditionally and vinified in old foudres without destemming or temperature control, the 2018 offered ideal conditions: ripe, concentrated material with the natural structure to support the extended barrel ageing that Bonneau wines require. The Marie Beurrier will have spent several years in barrel before release, reflecting the domaine’s traditional philosophy that time in wood is an essential element of wine development, not a cost to be avoided.

A Henri Bonneau Cuvée Marie Beurrier, in any vintage and at any stage of its development, is one of the most culturally significant red wines available from the southern Rhône. The domaine occupies a position in Châteauneuf-du-Pape akin to that of Domaine Leroy in Burgundy or Rayas among its own appellation peers: a source of wines whose individuality, authenticity and uncompromising character justify both their price and their collector following on grounds that transcend conventional critical scores.

Deep ruby with a profoundly complex nose of melted liquorice, pressed rose petal, cured meat, black cherry compote, garrigue, white pepper and the earthy, faded-floral depth of traditionally vinified old-vine Grenache at its finest. Full-bodied with sweet-tasting fruit enveloped in velvety tannins, excellent drive through the mid-palate and a long, spiced, mineral finish. Best from 2026 through 2050.

The radiant 2018 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Marie Beurrier presents a dazzling aromatic profile that frames melted liquorice, pressed rose petal, cured meat, black cherry compote and garrigue. A layered and full-bodied Marie Beurrier with excellent drive through the mid-palate. — Vinous