Giacomo Conterno’s Barbera d’Alba Vigna Francia is one of the finest expressions of the Barbera variety produced anywhere in Piedmont, and one of the most eloquent arguments for taking this much-maligned grape with complete seriousness at the level of Italy’s greatest estates. Produced from the estate’s celebrated Cascina Francia vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba, the same vineyard that provides the fruit for the legendary Monfortino Riserva and the estate’s Barolo Cascina Francia, the Barbera is produced with the same meticulous attention to quality and the same philosophy of extended ageing that governs every wine at this domaine. The result is a Barbera of extraordinary density, complexity and ageing potential that transcends the variety’s typical profile and occupies a space more akin to the great Nebbiolo-based wines of the Langhe than to the commercially-driven Barbera d’Asti of the broader market. Vinous reviews this wine systematically and the 2021 vintage note from Antonio Galloni is confirmed on the publication’s website.

Vigna Francia’s deep Tortonian marl and limestone soils in Serralunga d’Alba, with their excellent drainage and high mineral content, produce Barbera of unusual structure and concentration alongside the naturally vibrant acidity that the variety contributes to the finished wine. Roberto Conterno’s decision to age the Barbera in a combination of large Slavonian botti and smaller casks provides the oxidative complexity of traditional Langhe ageing without the astringency of excessive new oak, and the resulting wine occupies a distinctive stylistic position that requires at least five to eight years of bottle development to reveal its full character. The 2021 Piedmont vintage, while affected by spring frosts, produced wines of concentrated character and excellent natural freshness.

The Giacomo Conterno Barbera Vigna Francia in the magnum format is among the most coveted entry-level wines from this estate, offering a genuine expression of the Cascina Francia terroir and the Conterno philosophy in the most generous format available. For those who seek the estate’s distinctive mark on a wine that can be opened earlier than the Barolo and Monfortino, and at a price accessible to serious collectors without the extreme scarcity pressure of the estate’s Nebbiolo wines, the 2021 magnum is an outstanding acquisition.

Deep ruby with a complex and powerful nose of dark cherry, plum, violet, tobacco, coffee, mineral and the distinctive iron-inflected earthiness of Cascina Francia’s Serralunga terroir. Full-bodied with Barbera’s characteristic high-toned natural acidity, excellent tannin structure from the Conterno ageing approach and a long, savoury, mineral finish. Best from 2026 through 2038.

The 2021 Barbera Cascina Francia was tasted from barrel and pours a rich youthful ruby/purple color. Mineral-tinged with graphite, black raspberry, and violets, it is medium-bodied on the palate, with refined tannic structure, great freshness, and a red plum and more violet perfume. Gorgeous and pure, warmth and freshness at the same time, this is as good as it gets for Barbera. Drink 2024-2040. - Jeb Dunnuck