Tablas Creek’s top white has been roussanne-dominant for several vintages now, and they’ve learned how to capture the variety’s elegant fleshiness without letting it get blowsy, propping it up with higher-acid whites, like grenache blanc, picpoul, clairette and picardin. This wine smells of apple pulp and honey at first go, giving up little but seductive texture. On the second day open, the wine becomes grand, the weight of roussanne comfortable and powerful, with a lemony, crisp apple contour. - Wine & Spirits

The 2018 Esprit de Tablas Blanc is a blend of 66% Roussanne, 21% Grenache Blanc, 8% Picpoul Blanc, 3% Picardan and 2% Clairette Blanche aged in about 20% new French oak. The nose begins with soft floral perfume over hints of tree fruit, flint and beeswax. The light to medium-bodied palate is bright and juicy with an anchoring touch of texture on the uplifted finish. - Robert Parker