The 2017 Grange was produced in a vintage characterised by plentiful winter rains that broke a period of severe drought, followed by moderate summer temperatures and few heat spikes. This more restrained growing season produced a Grange that Peter Gago and others have compared in temperament to the cooler vintages of the Penfolds estate’s longer history, with a spicy, cool-climate aromatic register that differentiates the 2017 from the dense, dark fruit power of 2015 and 2016. The wine blends the same multi-regional approach of Barossa, McLaren Vale and Clare Valley sources within the established Grange framework.

The blend is based predominantly on Shiraz in the 97%–98% range with a small Cabernet Sauvignon component, aged for 18 months in 100% new American oak hogsheads. The 2017 is described by Decanter as having a bouquet of wild herbs “amid an orchard of plums,” with “impressive drive” on the palate and spiky notes of raw tannin and assertive oak showing that the wine is still in an early phase of development. Vinous described it as “approachable” and “seamlessly” structured but with a “stealth” quality that will only emerge fully over the next decade or more.

Four leading publications from the approved list gave the 2017 Grange strong but not exceptional scores for the label, reflecting the vintage’s more restrained and angular character compared to the blockbuster 2015 and 2016: Vinous awarded 97, Decanter 96, James Suckling 96 and the Wine Advocate 96. While these scores fall short of the 2016’s extraordinary near-perfect reception, they are nonetheless outstanding by any global standard and confirm the 2017 as a serious, long-lived Grange that rewards patience in the cellar.

Deep purple with a spicy, cool-climate nose of wild herbs, plum, anise and dark berry fruit, with the signature American oak influence of toasted coconut, vanilla and cedar. The palate is full-bodied and structured with crunchy tannins, some raw spicy notes of immaturity and an impressively long, focused finish. Needs a minimum of ten years; best from 2030 through 2055.

Surprisingly approachable, the seamless meld of fresh red fruits, mocha and liquorice makes for an especially friendly and agreeable young Grange. A fabulous bouquet immediately draws you in with a meadow of wild herbs amid an orchard of plums, while the long palate shows impressive drive. Spiky raw notes and assertive oak show this vintage is still growing into its sturdy frame.  — Decanter