The NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Conversation Grand Cru is a terrific introduction to the range. It is a wine of tremendous breadth and real character, all of which comes through pretty much upon opening. This release is based on 2014, with a 20% 2013 reserve wines from vineyards in Mesnil, Oger and Avize. Chardonnay flavors are kicked up a few notches in this decidedly vinous, powerful Blanc de Blancs. Dosage is 5 grams per liter. Vinous

The nose of the NV Champagne Grand Cru Conversation Brut lifts with a stylistically sweet perfume that translates through the entire range. It offers notes of sweet pastry, ripe peach, and honeydew melon, and the palate is medium-bodied and has ripe juicy fruit as well as a kiss of sweetness, with green apple candy, key lime, and white flowers. Approachable now, it would make a wonderful aperitif or an after dinner reset, given there is a hint of that generosity from the dosage. Drink over the next 8-10 years. Jeb Dunnuck