Philip Togni is one of California’s most academically rigorous winemakers, having studied oenology at the University of Bordeaux under the legendary Professor Émile Peynaud before embarking on a career that included tenures at Chappellet, Cuvaison and Inglenook. He established his own vineyard on Spring Mountain in 1975, releasing the first Cabernet Sauvignon from the estate in 1985. The wines are produced in minute quantities, distributed exclusively via a tightly controlled mailing list.

The vineyard sits at approximately 2,000 feet on Spring Mountain, above the fog line and in rocky, clay-rich soils that impart a taut, aromatic quality to the fruit. The blend is 82% Cabernet Sauvignon with 15% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, aged in 40% new French oak for 20 months. The 2001 vintage is considered among the finest produced at the estate, a year of excellent balance in Napa Valley that delivered wines of classical structure and notable ageing potential.

Philip Togni Cabernet occupies an unusual position in the California fine wine hierarchy: widely admired by critics and collectors but intentionally produced in quantities small enough to remain outside the mainstream. The wines’ Bordeaux-inspired discipline, refusal of high alcohol, and capacity to age gracefully for 30 years or more distinguish them from many California peers. A correctly cellared 2001 Togni is now approaching the earlier phases of its drinking window, having had more than two decades to integrate and develop.

Deep garnet with a brick-touched rim. The nose offers cassis, cedar, dried herbs, cigar box and a fine earthy undercurrent of mountain soil. Full-bodied with searing but now softening tannins, the palate is structured and concentrated with black cherry, dark plum and graphite leading to a long, savoury finish. Drink now through 2035.