The Les Ports opens with very subtle notes of smoke and volatile acidity that mingle with lemons and lemon zest, crumbly apples, some green stone fruit and crunchy red berries. Above all, it smells of crushed limestone and graphite and a fine hint of creamy sweetness. On the palate the Mixed set Energetic and powerful at the same time. One senses here the ageing in obviously new wood with a hint of tropical notes in the fruit, which is otherwise characterised by citrus fruits and stone fruits as well as red berries. A subtle note of volatile acidity runs through the fruit here too, but so subtly that it doesn't interfere but acts like an extra dimension. This is an independent, lively wine, fine in its perlage and at the same time emphatically artisanal. Champagne with power, body and definitely also with finesse.