Domaine Hubert Lamy, now run by Olivier Lamy who took over from his father in 1996, is based in Saint-Aubin and has become one of the most admired white wine producers in the Cote de Beaune. The estate farms 18.5 hectares across multiple appellations and is particularly renowned for its Saint-Aubin premiers crus, which consistently challenge Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet wines at a fraction of the price. Les Frionnes is the estate's most celebrated premier cru white.

Les Frionnes contains vines planted as far back as 1935, with Lamy's five plots ranging in age from young to over 80 years old. The site's mostly marl soils over limestone, akin to the Kimmeridgian geology of Chablis, produce Chardonnay of exceptional precision, salinity and mineral character. Olivier Lamy pursues greater extraction in the 2023 vintage to increase dry extract and heighten the sensation of freshness, a decision that has resulted in wines of more pronounced structure than previous releases. In magnum, the wine benefits from a slower development, extending the ageing window.

The 2023 Frionnes received 93 points from the Wine Advocate (Kristaps Karklins), with the WA reviewer describing it as 'oceanic in style... medium-bodied, pure and chiselled with a long, saline finish that will delight purists.' Vinous followed at 92. These scores confirm the wine's positioning among the finest premiers crus in Saint-Aubin and the most consistently high-scoring offerings at Domaine Hubert Lamy.

Cellar until at least 2028; best from 2028 to 2034. Pair with sole meuniere, poached turbot, grilled langoustines or aged Gruyere. Serve at 11 to 13 degrees in a large white Burgundy glass.

Pale lemon-gold with a bright shimmer. Aromas of nashi pear, white flowers, oyster juice, white peach and lemon oil build with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied, pure and chiselled with a crisp, mineral core and ample chalky extract, concluding in a long, saline and oceanic finish. Builds in the glass and rewards patience.